By Cuyler Gibbons, Photos by Molly Torian
Occupying the historic Edwards & Faw building (a dramatic two-story brick structure built in 1908), Crossings restaurant launched an updated menu in February under the direction of new chef Kevin Malone that is as spectacular as the surroundings. Inside, the exposed brick is balanced by modern geometric-shaped light fixtures hanging from the 14-foot ceiling, and an airy open kitchen.
Malone’s focus is hyperlocal. He’s a habitué of the area’s farmers markets, and sources much of his produce from a neighborhood garden. Malone begins with traditional notions, then adds his own twist that often stands them on their head. His hamachi collar is the same piece of fish you may think you know well, but broiled and rubbed in a Yucatán blend of banana, achiote and other spices known as pibil, it becomes an evocative combination of Japanese and Central American influence. Then there’s Malone’s uni carbonara. His take on the traditional Italian pasta is made with smoked egg yokes (which he cures for a week), then pairs with Spanish chorizo and fresh sea urchin from Santa Barbara, for an at once familiar yet wholly new flavor.
The food at Crossings is clearly the star, but the skillfully constructed craft cocktails make for a delicious kickoff for any meal, and the expertly curated wine list offers abundant choices that perfectly complement Malone’s menu. Reduced-price cocktails and bar bites are offered during happy hour Sunday-Friday, 5 to 9 p.m. Dinner nightly, brunch Sunday.
1010 Mission St., South Pasadena, (626) 799-7001 or crossings-restaurant.com.