Cheeseburger in Paradise

It’s 10:30 a.m., and I’m sitting in my Round Haus at the Green O, working on my laptop in front of a cozy glass-wall fireplace that looks out to the verdant wilderness, full of various pines and just a handful of treehouse-style accommodations that are part of the 12-cabin resort. The setting is ideal for relaxing and reflecting. But all I can think about is how much longer I have to wait until it’s socially acceptable to walk to the property’s Social Haus so I can order a cheeseburger.

Brooklyn, part of the culinary team and my server for the previous night’s eight-course tasting menu (every night at the Green O is an eight-course tasting menu, and they make sure guests never have the same dish twice), mentioned it to me somewhere around course six, and divulged that the chef grinds his own meat, bakes his own buns, and even makes his own cheese (jalapeño jack). I eat red meat sparingly, but when I do, there’s nothing like a great burger.

I stare out the window and decide I’ll wait until noon.

There are no TVs at the Green O, but the landscape is nature’s own reality show. Even just watching the weather change suddenly, as it often does in Montana, can be a charming shift from the bustle of city life.

The Green O is the adults-only resort within a resort at Montana’s acclaimed 37,000-acre Paws Up, the working cattle ranch that started accepting guests in 2005 and trademarked the term “glamping.”

Guests who have come to Paws Up with their kids and enjoyed packed itineraries of anything from cattle drives and fly-fishing to snowshoeing and dog-sledding have undoubtedly created lifelong memories with their loved ones. However, the Green O offers the opportunity to engage in those activities as desired while also staying in elevated, contemporary accommodations in a secluded part of the property—with what is perhaps one of the country’s best chefs.

Self-taught chef Brandon Cunningham hails from Portland and has been living in Montana for the last six years, first overseeing the culinary programming at Paws Up (ranch fare), and then moving over to the Green O when it debuted in 2021.

The initial allure of Green O might be the plethora of ranch activities and stunning setting, but once there, you’ll likely find that the glamp’s most appealing aspect is its ability to let you indulge: in quality time with your partner, in nature, in a long bath, in forest gazing while doing the New York Times crossword puzzle. And of course, indulging in the cuisine.

When I finally sit down to enjoy the burger (I lasted until noon), I go full throttle and order a beer, side of fries, and the kind of salad that’s drenched in (homemade) ranch. I’m by myself, no screaming children, no masses, just expanses of trees and mountains. Pure indulgence.

Rates at the Green O start at $1,940/night for double occupancy, inclusive of food